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If you’re not sure what to zero your rifle at or want to make it easy, just pick one of those. The normal standard is generally 100-yards for a centerfire rifle and 25/50-yards for a.
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What Distance Should I Zero?īefore you hit the range, think about what distance you want to zero your rifle. We can exploit this for our own gain, but more on that later. When you fire, the bullet leaves the barrel traveling upward first - then starts to fall thus giving an “arc.” While your line of sight remains flat and on target, the barrel is pointed slightly up. When you zero a rifle, you’re generally zeroing it so that the barrel is angled up and away from you. Because we know gravity is a thing and it’s constant, it’s easy to account for. Where the arc comes from is in how we aim. Gravity is going to do what gravity does and start pulling that bullet down to earth as soon as it leaves the barrel.Ī bullet fired level to the ground and a bullet dropped from the same height will hit the ground at the same time. If you’re aiming level, your bullet will not rise significantly before falling. Something you might have been told or might think yourself is that bullets travel in an arc. It’s important to keep things consistent so that you don’t have to do conversion after conversion.īullets Travel in an Arc! (kind of but not really) Normally - MOA is going to be in yards and this is the most common measurement in general. They can BOTH be used with EITHER yards or meters. Keep in mind that MOA and MILs are angular measurements. Kind of like MOA and MIL, it’s not critical what unit of measurement you use. If you’re counting and trying to math your way to a zero, then you’ll need to know what your scope is calibrated in. Athlon BTR Gen II, 1 click = 0.1 MILįor zeroing your scope it really doesn’t matter if you’re in MILs or MOA. Normally on your turret or on the cap for the turret, it will tell you how much your clicks are. While it depends on your scope, the most common adjustment increments are 1/4 MOA, 1/2 MOA, and 0.1 MILs. Each of those marks and clicks correspond to how much your reticle moves.